Elements of the hand-stitch technique
The Artisan’s Main Tools
· Pricking Irons
Used to prick uniform holes for marking the place for the awl to penetrate the leather. An artisan will accumulate different irons with various numbered holes (10,8,6,4,3,2 and 1) for different distances. Keep in mind, usually, the closer the holes, the smaller the accessory and thinner the thread; thus, the more precise the stitches will look on a luxury product. Pricking holes takes a great deal of training to ensure the stitches are straight.
· Stitching needles
Needles are made in various sizes and are usually larger than typical sewing needles. The tip is slightly blunt since it is not needed to pierce holes in the leather which will be done with the pricking iron and awl.
· Waxed thread
The coating of wax on the thread allows it to slide through the holes easier and provides certain protection of the thread from moisture. The types of thread can impact the outcome of a finished product. Man-made nylon and polyester thread can be burned lightly to seal the ends. On the other hand, natural linen thread has to be pulled intact through the holes to seal the thread in place because it doesn’t burn. A beeswax block is used to coat the thread to ensure an easier pull through the holes of the leather. Beau Satchelle typically uses variations of French threads depending on the project.
· Stitching pony
Either a floor or table T-shaped wooden clamp built to hold leather during the stitching process; usually the jaws are covered with leather to protect the leather being stitched. Some master crafters prefer not to use a stitching pony, yet, for most artisans, it provides control and protects the leather from excessive handling during the stitching process.